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Remember: the first four rows of this stitch are the most difficult. After
that you should be fine. It helps to have very good lighting while you are working,
and to learn to hold the beads gently in your hand. You will be almost holding
the beads together until you have three or four rows completed.
The easiest thing to start with is a bracelet that uses a single size of bead,
such as a Czech 4mm firepolished, or a Delica 8 hex-cut.
1. First, make a double loop as a stop around one bead, or tie a knot
to hold the thread on the first bead. The less knots the better, but sometimes
it's easier when you are learning to fix the thread firmly.
2. Begin by stringing the first row of beads. This will be the WIDTH
of the bracelet, as the square stitch is worked horizontally. As you gain
expertise, you will be able to increase and decrease at will, or leave windows
for insertions. So your first row will be the beginning width of your bracelet.
I recommend choosing a width of 5 or 6 beads to start out with. Hold the row of
beads so that the needle end of the thread is coming out of the TOP of the row.
For the second row, string one bead onto your needle, then pass UP through
the last (top) bead of the first row. Pass back DOWN through the first bead in
the second row. You should be making a continuous circular loop through each
two beads that are side-by-side. See photo at the end of these instructions for
an illustration of the thread path. Continue by stringing one or two beads at
a time, passing through the neighboring beads of the previous row, and back through
the beads just strung. Repeat this looping technique down to the end of the
row. (When working with larger beads, and at any point in a bracelet very
close to the start, finish, or a window, it is a good idea to sew your beads on
one at a time. For Delica or other small beads in the body of the piece, you can
get good results and save a lot of time by going two beads at a time.)
3. Be aware of your tension, and try not to have a lot of loose thread
in the beads. You don't have to pull it tight at the beginning, just keep it together.
You may have to make several tries at these first two rows; it takes a little
practice to get them just right. As you finish the second row, take a minute
to gently tug the thread ends so that the thread is snug, but not tight, between
all of the beads. In general, if you pull the thread too tightly, the bracelet
will not lay smoothly, and if you leave slack, you will have unsightly loops of
thread showing at the edges. The ideal is a bracelet that is even all over, and
has a very neat thread line at the edge.
4. At the end of the row, and every row after this, reinforce the previous
row and the one you just finished by running the thread up through the entire
previous row and down through the entire current row. Then start a new row. I
find it helpful to flip the bracelet over at the end of each row so that I am
always working from top to bottom, and left to right. It makes it easier. I had
a little mantra when I started, to remind me of what I was doing- "up through
the previous bead, down through the current one". Continue adding rows until you
have the length that you want, remembering that you have to leave room to add
the clasp. You can finish your bracelet by beading down to nice points before
you sew on the clasp ends, which is really pretty simple (you can just bring your
needle out at the second bead, go down to the next to last one, and keep dropping
a bead each time until you have a point), or you can leave the ends straight.
If you want an adjustable fit, you can use a small length of chain and a lobster
or hook.
To attach a clasp, you will want to sew it on securely to each end of
the bracelet with at least four or five passes of thread. Most clasps have a construction
that will dictate how they should be attached, either a single loop, two or more
holes, or an open bar. Use the most sensible thread path that will allow the clasp
to lie properly. Be sure not to sew it too tightly, or it might be uncomfortable
to use. It's much like sewing on a button- you want to go through the button several
times, but if you sew it too tightly to the fabric, you can't use it easily.
When you have a little practice in this stitch, you will find it pretty simple
to attach the first half of the clasp right at the start. For maximum stability,
I never sew it directly onto the first few rows of beads. Instead, I begin the
bracelet at about the third row. I sew a few rows on, until I feel that I have
a secure strip of beads, and then I weave my needle back through the beads until
I am back at Row 3. Then I go backwards, and add rows 2 and 1, and sew my clasp
onto row 1. Then I weave my needle back out to Row 10, or wherever I stopped,
and go forward until the end of the bracelet.
To change thread, weave the end of the old thread back through the rows
you have finished, avoiding the edges (you don't want little cut ends showing).
Tie a few square knots between beads, and cut the thread off flush. Use knots
sparingly, and only in the middle of a row, so that they never show on the edges.
Start a new thread by weaving it in the same way, knotting only if you have to.
Once you have a few beads square stitched on with the new thread, it will be secure.
To add a window, or open space in your bracelet: Check out my article
on Sculptural Bracelets, coming in Lapidary Journal's October Bead Annual issue.
A downloadable print of the article will be available on my web site after publication.
HAVE FUN! Email me with any questions or suggestions at kate@modernnymph.com.
Accessories you may find helpful: small pliers to tug needle through
tight spots, Thread Heaven or beeswax for your thread, a beanbag lap desk and
velvet-lined tray to hold work in your lap. Let me know if you have any trouble
finding these and I can get them for you.
copyright 2001 Kate
McKinnon
Reproduced with permission of the author.
More
bead resources
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Securing loop, Row 1. Active thread is at top and we are working left to right.
First bead, row 2, UP through previous
bead. 
DOWN through current bead. 
Row 2, complete. Right thread is
active, left is tail.
Row 3, bead one. Tail is now at
top, as we flip the bracelet over after every row, so that we can always work
top to bottom and left to right. 
