Working with a heated mandrel coated with bead release, heat and wind a core of ivory around the mandrel.

Smooth and shape the bead on the marver pad. Reheat the entire bead core until it is evenly warmed.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Roll the bead over a strip of silver foil placed on the marver pad.

Burnish the foil in with either a stainless tool or marver pad. Return the bead to the flame. Most of the silver will burn off during this process.

After the foiled bead is well heated, roll the bead into the goldstone chips.

Return the bead to the flame and melt in the goldstone chips.

Repeat this process, picking up more goldstone over the surface of the bead.

Smooth the bead again until it is evenly shaped. (You may leave a bumpy goldstone surface on the bead if you like.)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Easy so far... right? Now for encasing. If encasing a bead is a new process to you, try several methods and see what works best for you. Although time consuming, encasing your beads in clear or pale transparents will always add depth and magnify the design underneath — it is well worth the effort. Okay, enough said.

Heat the end of the clear rod until it is a molten blob, while keeping the bead just outside of the flame — to keep it warm. The bead needs to remain warm enough to prevent cracking, but if it is too hot the design will smear. This takes time and care.

Cover the entire bead with the molten clear glass by swiping it onto the bead.

When applying, push the clear down onto the bead to prevent trapping air bubbles. Repeat this process until the entire surface is covered in clear and then fill in any gaps.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Return the bead to a neutral flame and heat evenly to smooth the casing.

Gently smashing the bead with mashers, a little at a time, is helpful, or you can roll the bead on your marver pad.

Slowly work the bead into your desired shape.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

After the bead is finished, evenly heat and rotate the bead higher up in the flame.

Remove the bead from the heat while turning the mandrel to maintain the bead’s shape. After a few seconds, when the glow fades, place the bead in your kiln, which should be set at 960°F for annealing.

To anneal the beads, let them stand in the kiln at 960°F for one hour.
Ramp down 100 degrees per hour until the kiln reaches 550°F.
Shut the kiln off and let it come to room temperature (about 2 hours).
(No peeking allowed!)

Once cooled your bead is done.

String on a cord or fashion as a pendant.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Lauri Copeland lives in Overland Park, Kansas with her husband, 12 year old son, two poodles and two cats. Coming from a fiber arts background, Lauri switched her focus to flameworking glass beads for the last two years. She is primarily self-taught. Setting up at several annual bead shows and selling on e-Bay keeps her head spinning. Lauri’s beads can be seen online at: http://www.wildfire-designs.com and she can be reached through email at: wildfirebeads@aol.com.

More bead projects can be found here! Also, see our special Bead Annual guide to stories and resources.

________________________________________________________________

Feature Stories & Artist Profiles | Step-by-Step Projects & Workshops | Technique Articles | Business Articles | New Products | News, Conferences, & Deadlines | Take our Reader Survey

Articles & Workshops | Bead Fest | Jewelry Classes | Show Calendar | Search for Products & Suppliers | Classified Ad Deals | Advertising Rates & Information | Media Reviews | Store - Books & Back Issues | Contact Us | Links | Site Map