Torus rings set by Glenn Lehrer. From left to right: diamond in rhodolite, 18K; diamond in pink tourmaline, platinum; diamond in green tourmaline, 18K; golden sapphire in bicolor sapphire, 18K; pink diamond in bicolor sapphire, platinum. Photo © Lee-Carraher; instructional photos below: Glenn Lehrer.

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Editor's note: Several jewelers describe how they use Torus cuts in “Circles of Light”.

The Torus Ring Gemstone™ is a ring-shaped transparent gem, into which a jeweler can set a smaller gem and then set the whole into a piece of jewelry. Two of the most frequently asked questions I get about the Torus are, not surprisingly, “How do you set the Torus cut?” and then “How do you set the center stone in the middle of the Torus?”

I designed the Torus Ring Gemstone™ cut as a unique gemstone for the jeweler that is calibrated for ease and repeatability of setting. The outside girdle of the Torus cut is even and exactly the same as a traditional faceted stone. The Torus can be set into a piece of jewelry using any traditional setting method - prong, channel, bezel, or tab stone setting.

This project will focus on setting a gemstone in the hole of the Torus, and will require some experience in tube/bezel setting and drawing metal through draw plates, as well as skill with hammer setting using stone-setting punches. Take a moment to familiarize yourself with the facet parts of the Torus, shown in the following illustrations, which are based on basic principles of faceting and optics.

Large-diameter steel draw plate, approx. 1.5-6.0mm Draw tongs Vernier-gauge, electronic-digital, or dial calipers Chasing or ball peen hammer for stone setting Set of small stone-setting punches Gravers: flat (#s 38-41) and square (#4) Small-diameter (2.0-4.0mm) dapping punches Jeweler's saw and blades Engraver's block or bench vise Round toothpicks 3 hardwood blocks, i.e., maple or birch, approx. 2" x 2" x .75" and/or 1" diameter dowel Lapidary dopping wax or setters shellac Small slim-blade burnishing tool Assorted small-diameter (1.0-4.0mm) burs, i.e., stone-setting, bearing, bud, or ball bur shapes Flexible-shaft tool with Jacob's chuck hand piece Assorted small files and sandpaper sticks For information on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers' Directory. Always ask for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for any materials you buy, which will give you reactivity, health hazard, and safe handling data.

A prominent gem carver and member of Gem Artists of North America (GANA), Glenn Lehrer's Torus Ring Gemstone™ is a patented design (patent #5,722,261). He is recognized for cutting some of the largest gemstones in the world. In addition to gem carving, he is a proficient goldsmith. Mr. Lehrer's gallery and workshop are located in Larkspur, CA.

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