|  DESIGN
CONSIDERATIONS
Some advance planning will simplify the process of creating a pleasing design.
In this charm bracelet I’m attempting to convey the cool, serene aspects
of our world. The bracelet is earthy, yet soft, tranquil, and maybe even a little
mysterious. On a white towel, arrange a variety of components such as glass beads,
stone disks, and charms that you want to include in your charm bracelet. Ask yourself
what feeling or theme you want to develop. Are you drawn to exotic and adventurous,
subdued and mysterious, ancient and ethnic, or more contemporary designs? Your
choice of components and colors will help you achieve the design you want. Your
color selections can be simplified by using a color wheel. Here are 3 color scheme
options:
Complementary: Use opposite hues on the color wheel; make one color
dominant. Complimentary color schemes lend themselves to creating excitement and
visual interest through contrast.
Monochromatic: Use tints and shades of the same color. Tints are colors
where white has been added. Shades are colors with black added. Monochromatic
schemes create visual harmony and are often soft and pleasing to the eye.
Analogous (as seen in this bracelet): Use three adjacent colors on the
color wheel. Choose cool or warm tones to express your theme. Make one color dominant,
another subordinate, and the third in between. These color schemes have less contrast
than complementary color schemes, yet they are more complex visually than monochromatic
arrangements.
 MAKING THE S-LINKS
 Measure
your wrist with a soft measuring tape, leaving some room for your bracelet to
hang comfortably. One finished S-link measures about 1" in length. However,
this size will vary depending on the placement of the wire on the jaws of your
round nose pliers. In addition to the length of the S-links, you will be adding
jump rings in between these links and one at the end. To ensure a good fit, I
suggest you make your S-links and some jump rings in copper first. This way you
can adjust the size by increasing or decreasing the 2-3/4" length recommended
in the directions.
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 Cut a 2-3/4"
piece of dead soft, 14-gauge, sterling silver wire with your flush (semi-flush)
wire cutters. Make sure both ends have a blunt cut. A blunt cut is achieved by
placing the flat side of the cutters next to the wire you are cutting. Safety
Concern: Flying pieces of wire are little missiles that can harm eyes. Always
cover the beveled side of the cutter with your index finger (not too close though)
to block wire flight.
Hammer 1/4" to 1/3" of both ends with your chasing hammer.
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 Grasp one end with
the tip of your round nose pliers. Rotate your hand away from your body to form
a small circle. Repeat this action on the other end; make sure to form the small
circle in the opposite direction of the first one you made.
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 Grasp the wire (right
next to the little circle you just made) in the back of your round nose pliers.
Rotate your wrist away from your body and, with your free thumb, press down on
the wire until the little circle meets your thumb. Repeat on the other end of
the wire in the opposite direction. If you wish, hammer the curved ends with your
chasing hammer for a finished look. Make enough S-links to fit your wrist.
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 MAKING THE JUMP
RINGS
 Wrap 20"
of 16-gauge, dead soft, sterling silver wire around a wood dowel that is 1/4"
or less in diameter. Keep a tail in your non-wrapping hand so that you have something
to hang onto. Wrap away from your body and place the coils as close to each other
as possible. When you reach the end of the wire, reverse the direction of the
dowel and wrap the tail onto the dowel. Remove the coil from the dowel.
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 With your chain
nose pliers, gently pull the coil apart so it will be easier for you to make your
cuts. Blunt-cut the end of the coil with your flush wire cutters (flat side of
the cutters will be towards your body).
 Reverse
your pliers so that the beveled side of your cutters now faces your body. This
will result in both ends of your jump ring having blunt cuts. Snip the second
coil right above the end of the first coil. You have now made one jump ring. To
continue, repeat the same process. Blunt-cut the end, reverse your pliers and
snip off your jump ring.
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 Grip one end of
the jump ring with your chain nose pliers and the other with your flat nose pliers.
Toggle the two ends back and forth 3-4 times to work-harden the metal. When you
want to open and close jump rings, use this same motion.
Repeat Steps 6-8 until you have enough jump rings to complete your bracelet.
You can now assemble the foundation of your bracelet by connecting the S-links
with jump rings. I suggest you use two jump rings at each connection. At one end
of the bracelet, add a jump ring that is a little larger, about 3/8" in diameter.
At the other end, open up the S-link just enough to create a clasp.
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 MAKING THE HEAD
PINS
 Cut
a 12" piece of 18-gauge wire and a 12" piece of 16-gauge wire. These
lengths will allow you to make numerous head pins. You will use the 18-gauge wire
to make head pins for smaller beads and the 16-gauge for larger ones.
Blunt-cut the end of the wire. Grasp the end with the tips of your round nose
pliers. Try to have very little of the wire peeking through the plier tips. Rotate
the pliers away from your body and, with the thumb of your free hand, press down
on the tail of the wire. Release and reset the pliers until you make a small circle.
Continue wrapping the wire closely around the newly formed circle.
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 With your chain
or flat nose pliers, grasp your developing spiral. Point your pliers straight
in front of you. Hold your pliers hand stationary and, with your free thumb, ease
the tail of the wire next to the spiral.
When you can go no further, release your pliers and regrip the spiral with
the tail perpendicular to your pliers. Continue wrapping the tail next to the
spiral. For a head pin, you will likely want the spiral to be small, so don’t
get too carried away. If you want, flatten the spiral with your chasing hammer.
 Grasp the wire
right next to the spiral and 1/4" down the jaw of your round nose pliers.
The spiral should be facing your body. Use your free thumb to press the wire against
the pliers while rotating your hand away from your body. Release the pliers when
you can go no further, reset your pliers, and continue until a circle is formed.
Continue wrapping until the tail of the wire is perpendicular to your developing
head pin.
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  Insert
your chain nose pliers into the top of the circle. With your free index finger,
press the tail towards your body until the tail forms a straight line above the
spiral.
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 Insert the tail
of the wire through your bead. You will now make an “eye” above your
bead which will allow you to attach it to the S-link using a jump ring.
Snip the tail with your wire cutters (blunt cut), allowing a 5/8" extension.
Grasp the tail of the wire with your round nose pliers and rotate your hand away
from your body to form a circle. The end of the wire should reach the top of the
bead (or thereabouts). Knowing where on your pliers to grasp the wire will take
some practice. I suggest you practice with copper wire and when you find the magic
spot that gives you the perfect “eye,” mark your pliers with an indelible
pen.
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  Grasp
the joint of the “eye” with the tip of your chain nose pliers and rotate
your hand towards your body to create a bend. Insert your round nose pliers firmly
into the eye, and rotate your hand away from your body to create the finished
“eye.” It should be sitting proudly on top of your bead.
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  Here
is an alternative head pin design. Using a 12" piece of wire, insert one
end through your bead/pearl. Select the wire gauge that will fit through the bead
hole. Pearls have pretty small cavities, so you may need 22- or 20-gauge wire.
Grasp the end of the wire (very little peeking through) with the tips of your
round nose pliers, and rotate your hand away from your body, forming a circle.
Release and reset your pliers, and continue rotating your hand until you have
formed two complete circles (or coils) with the wire. As in Step 14, grasp the
joint with your chain nose pliers, rotate your hand towards your body to create
a bend. Insert your round nose pliers and set the circle on top of the bead.
 Grasp the tail
1-1/2" from the bead (this will vary depending on where you place the wire
on your round nose pliers). Rotate your hand away from your body to form a circle.
Release and reset, and continue rotating until you have formed two complete circles.
The double circles should be sitting close to the bead with enough allowance for
wrapping. Knowing where to place your pliers on the wire to end up in this position
takes some practice. As in Step 13, once you find the magic placement on your
pliers, mark it with an indelible pen. With your chain nose pliers at the joint,
rotate your hand towards your body to create a bend.
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 Insert your round
nose pliers into the circle, or “eye,” so that the tail is in front
of and free of the pliers. With your free hand, take hold of the tail and wrap
it one or two times (motion is away from the body) around the wire below the “eye.”
Snip the tail close to the joint and, with your chain nose pliers, ease that little
tail neatly into place.
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 MAKING THE
SPIRALS
 Use
14-gauge wire to make a substantial spiral. Consider hammering the spiral to make
it even stronger. 8" of 14-gauge wire will make a spiral that is about 3/4"
in diameter. Smaller spirals can be made with 16-gauge wire. Follow Steps 9 and
10 above to form the spiral. Keep wrapping until you achieve the desired size.
When you reach the end, simply grasp the tail with your round nose pliers (very
little wire peeking through) and rotate your hand away from your body to form
the eye.
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 ASSEMBLY AND
ANTIQUING
Assemble your bracelet after you have given your components head pins. Some components,
such as a donut, can be attached to the S-link with a large jump ring. Link all
components to the bottom curves of your S-links with jump rings.
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 To antique your
bracelet (optional), move outdoors to avoid inhaling the noxious fumes. Boil 2
cups of water. Pour the water into a small glass bowl that you will use only for
antiquing purposes. Add a pea-size chunk of liver of sulfur to the water and stir.
Do not breathe the fumes. Dunk your bracelet into the water for about 5 seconds
or until it turns a steel gray. Remove the bracelet and rinse it in clean water.
Let it dry. With .04 steel wool, rub off all the darkened silver areas. Use a
polishing cloth to bring a nice sheen to your silver.
|
Charm
Bracelet
