Media Reviews: Fiber & Bead Jewelry

Fiber & Bead Jewelry: Beautiful Designs to Make & Wear
by Helen Banes with Sally Banes
published by Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., New York, NY, 2000.
Hard-cover, color, 8-1û4 x 10-1û4,
128 pages. $27.95.

Reviewed by Verna Suit.

Helen Banes is an innovative artist who originated the technique of structurally integrating beads and thread, which has come to be known as the “Helen Banes Technique.” From a first serendipitous neckpiece that she made over 20 years ago to wear to the opening of an exhibit of her tapestries, her distinctive jewelry technique has grown in fame and popularity, and now is studied widely.

Her first book, Beads & Threads, written in 1993 with artist Diane Fitzgerald, showed some of both their work, as well as pieces by other artists using the same technique. Fiber Bead & Jewelry is co-authored with Banes’ daughter, Sally, who has written several books on theater and dance, and concentrates solely on the work of Helen Banes. It begins with a narrative of her creative journey that traces her influences and artistic development. The book’s highlights, however, are the 80 stunning examples of Banes’ work, none of which are repeats from the first volume.

Helen Banes’ bead-and-thread neckpieces often start with an ornament (or collection of ornaments), which serves as a focal point and theme, and whose coloring and character determine artistic style and choice of yarn. She then threads beads, gemstones, or amulets on a shaped warp and secures them in place by surrounding them with areas of needle weaving. The contrast of textures provides visual interest, and the neckpiece provides an ambulatory way to display a favorite object. Although Banes’ own inspirations come from ancient artifacts and textiles, her technique can provide a dramatic mounting for any perforated object — even a pin.

For those who are inspired to try the technique, the book includes detailed instructions and clear photographs of various steps in the process. The only equipment required is a small board, pins for shaping the warp, and a tapestry needle to do the weaving. A section on elements of design discusses issues pertinent to these bead-and-thread neckpieces. 24 of the actual pieces are accompanied by patterns that may be copied, many of which are smaller and quicker to make than designs included in the first book.

For those who simply like to look at beautiful images, the spectacular creations on every page of Fiber & Bead Jewelry make it a book for browsing through and admiring.